Styrian town of Murau hosts biennale on Global Beer

Austria | Where on earth is Murau? And how come it holds a festival on Global Beer? Murau, a small town of about 3,500 inhabitants, lies 160 km southeast of Salzburg. First mentioned in the late 13th century, Murau’s fame, historically, rested on logging and brewing.

Well, the timber industry has long lost its economic relevance and Murau’s brewery, Murauer Bier, which has been going since the 15th century, is facing strong headwinds in an increasingly fragmented domestic beer market (300 breweries and counting). 

Still, Murau offers plenty of excellent scenery, which make it an attractive tourist destination both in winter (skiing) and in summer (hiking). Located in a valley on the river Mur, it boasts a cosy olde-worlde town centre, as well as a massive castle, which is owned by the Schwarzenberg family. The Schwarzenberg are a Czech (Bohemian) and German (Franconian) aristocratic family, who trace their roots to the 15th century.

The trouble is, all of Austria is vying for tourists and Murau’s handicap is that it is somewhat off the beaten track.

Fortunately, there is  Ernst Wachernig, a PR professional who was born in the area. He came up with the idea that the best way to raise Murau’s profile is to have a cultural festival every two years. Convincing the council and local businesses to put money behind it, he launched the Muraubiennal in 2017, which focused on the Schwarzenberg. The idea proved successful. Over the summer of 2017, about 35,000 visitors milled into town.

This year’s theme is “Global Beer”, which needs to be interpreted in two ways: first, beer is a global phenomenon. All over the world, beer has become part of local cultures. Second, the brewing industry has been globalised too. Austria is no exception. The country’s major brewer is Dutch Heineken.

Between 15 June and 12 October 2019, the Muraubiennal offers a programme packed with lots of things to see, do and get involved in. The mainstay of the festival is the “Global Beer Walk” around town, which allows punters to immerse themselves in 6,000 years of brewing culture. It highlights the globalisation of the brewing industry, informs about aristocrats and monks‘ interest in brewing, and entertains with an exhibition of beer ads. The walk can be done independently or as part of a guided tour. For those who flag, there are over two dozen pubs and cafés along the way, which offer adult refreshments.

Special highlights are a “Beer Theatre” with beer-themed cabarets and shows, “Beer Hikes” conducted by Austria’s beer writer Conrad Seidl, an open-air beer dinner accompanied by live music, a garden party at the Schwarzenberg’s castle where beer from various “aristocrats’ breweries” (for lack of a better term) will be served, and several street parties, offering beers, beer sausages and meatloaves.        

Of course, there is a special release beer too, a monastery beer, brewed by the Murau brewery for the Benedictine monastery St Lambrecht – the first in 950 years. Although a major sponsor, the local brewery itself does not dominate the programme in order not to undermine the festival’s global claim.   

For more information, please visit www.muraubiennal.at/en/.